Doors and windows we install
Most of the door and window work we do falls into three buckets: replacement windows in an existing opening, entry-door replacement (front door, back door, patio door), and new door installations that involve framing changes — cutting a new opening in an exterior wall for a French door or slider onto a deck.
Each has different considerations. Replacements are the fastest and simplest — no framing changes, no permit needed in most cases, done in a day per opening. New openings are the biggest job because they involve cutting the wall, framing a header, and rebuilding the exterior. Entry-door swaps sit in the middle.
Brands and materials we work with
- Windows: Andersen (400 Series and A-Series), Marvin (Elevate, Signature), and Pella (Lifestyle and Reserve) for premium residential installations. Andersen and Marvin especially hold up well in New England weather. Vinyl replacement windows from Harvey, Alside, and Ply Gem for budget-conscious projects.
- Entry doors: ThermaTru fiberglass and Masonite for insulated entry doors. Simpson wood doors for higher-end projects where the natural-wood look is worth the extra maintenance.
- Patio / French / Sliding: Andersen 200 or 400 Series for patio doors, Marvin Ultimate for higher-end sliders, ThermaTru for French doors.
- Storm doors: Larson and Andersen for full-view or self-storing storm doors.
The brand matters less than the installation. A cheap window installed properly outlasts a premium window installed badly. Where we spend real time is on flashing, sealing, and shimming — the boring details that determine whether the unit will still be dry and square in 15 years.
How the install actually goes
A window replacement is typically a one-day job per unit. We remove the old sash, clean up the opening, check for rot around the frame, install the new window with proper shimming, apply flashing tape, seal the exterior with proper caulk, and re-trim. If we find rot in the sheathing or framing when we open things up, that's an add-on scope we discuss with you before proceeding.
An entry-door swap is similar. Where things get more involved is when the old door frame has settled and the opening isn't square — which is common on older houses. We shim the new door plumb and level regardless of what the original opening does, then trim to hide the adjustments.
A new door installation with a new opening — cutting into an exterior wall for a French door onto a deck, for example — takes 2–3 days. We frame the opening with a properly-sized header, install the door, flash and trim the exterior, and repair the interior wall.
Permits and code
Like-for-like window and door replacement generally doesn't require a permit in Massachusetts, as long as you're not changing the opening size or structural framing. New openings — where we're cutting a wall to install a door where there wasn't one — do require a permit because they involve structural work.
All new construction meets Massachusetts energy code, which specifies minimum U-values and Solar Heat Gain Coefficients. Most name-brand windows and doors have ENERGY STAR ratings that comfortably meet or exceed the code minimums.
Common problems we find on existing installations
- Failed flashing. Water gets behind the trim, rots the framing around the opening. Sometimes the rot is contained; sometimes it's spread to the sill plate below.
- Improper foam gaps. Cheap installations use expanding foam that pushes the frame out of square, causing operational problems on doors and windows.
- Missing sill pans. Doors and patio doors need proper sill pans under them — a metal or membrane pan that catches any water that gets past the threshold. Missing sill pans are a leading cause of rotted subfloor near patio doors.
- Racked frames. Original opening was out of square, installer didn't shim properly. The door or window doesn't operate smoothly and never will.
Recent projects
